-ONE FREE TEMPLATE
- ONE 5×4” piece of felt in your color choice
- ONE 2×2.5” piece of white felt
- ONE 5mm black pom pom
- ONE 1/2” white pom pom
- white embroidery thread (I use perle #8)
- black embroidery thread
- sewing machine or hot glue gun
I made all of my bunnies using my sewing machine and hand stitching. However, if you don’t have a machine or are afraid of needles…the whole bunny could be assembled with a hot glue gun.
Step 1 Cut out your pieces!
Download and print the Hoppy Easter Finger Puppet template. Cut out the pattern pieces. Next, pin the pattern pieces to the colored felt and cut 2 bodies and 2 ears. You’ll also cut 2 ears from the white felt.
Step 2 Make the bunny’s face
Attach the black pom pom to the front body piece using black embroidery thread. I did this by making one stitch through the center of the pom pom. You could also attach the nose with a hot glue gun, though it might not be as secure. Next, make your bunny’s eyes. I used my black embroidery thread and made two French knots (one for each eye). Alternately, you could make two small x’s. You will add the whiskers later!
Attach the bunny’s tail to the back body piece by making a stitch through the white pom pom with the white embroidery floss. Again, a hot glue gun would also work. But I might not trust it in a baby’s mouth!
Step 4 Make those floppy ears!
Place one white ear on top of one colored ear. Sew the two ear pieces together carefully and slowly with a 1/8” seam allowance—backstitching at each end. Repeat this for the second ear.
*These ears are tiny and can be tricky to sew! I found it helpful once I reached the tip of the ear to put my needle in the down position, lift my foot (see above) and then rotate the ear little by little to maneuver the curve. Make sure to lower your foot again before each stitch! The bottom of the ear gets tucked in side the bunny so don’t get stressed out about that. But if they are really giving you a hard time bust out that glue gun!
Step 5 Make the bunny’s body!
Sandwich the ears between the front and back body pieces WRONG sides together. The whites of the ears should face the front. Wiggle the ears around until you like the positioning, and then pin them in place. This should secure all three pieces (the ear and both body pieces) together.
Next determine how big you’d like the finger opening to be! Will these be for tiny fingers, big fingers, or both? Place the finger (or something similar in size) on the bottom of the bunny and mark on either side of it generously (so the circumference of the finger will fit) with a fabric marker or pins.
Sew the front and back pieces together with a 1/8” seam allowance—starting and stopping where indicated by markings you made around the finger. Make sure to backstitch at each end and take out the pins! You’ll also want to make sure your tail is facing you as you sew. Again, this is intricate sewing, so you could hand stitch it, or use the glue gun. But keep in mind, you can trim off whatever you screw up!
Step 6 Add the whiskers
Cut two 3” pieces of white embroidery floss. Make the first set of whiskers by looping one piece of floss around the bottom of the nose and tying a knot snug against the base of the top of the pom pom. Loop the second piece of floss around the TOP of the nose and knot it snug against the base of the bottom of the pom pom. Trim the whiskers to your desired length!
p.s. If you’re looking for something more substantial for your Easter basket the Peek-a-boo Bunny Pattern in my shop is a PDF that I email to you! It’s a super quick project and you could make a bunch in time for Easter!
So, I knew that we didn’t pay for the cable that we received at our home, but I never really took the time to think about where that wonderful free cable was coming from. And it didn’t occur to me that if we weren’t paying for it…that meant we were stealing it. Hey, I think cable, like Internet, should be free.
I consider not thinking too hard about fairly obvious things as one of the upsides to having a brain like mine. Yes, I might not be able to sleep at night because I’m busy obsessing over the best way to construct an Easter craft or build a terrarium…but I won’t blink twice when it comes to logistics or mechanics.
Apparently one of Eric’s old roommates, back from when our house was filled with stinky boys, had run some wires out to wherever the cable lines were, and we’ve been stealing from the cable company ever since. Lots of the guys who lived there used to install Dish Network, so they were familiar with all that jazz.
Anyway. I’m not a huge TV person. I can’t be, because I’m too easily entertained and too easily addicted to anything I set my mind to. But, I do like my Food Network and, as we all know I LOVE ME SOME America’s Next Top Model.
So I come home on Wednesday, thrilled that it’s time for ANTM, and I turn on the TV. But do I see Tyra and a slew of skinny little model-wannabes? NO! I only see blue. I looked behind the TV and turned it on and off a few times before deciding being married to a handy man like Eric means I don’t have to do crap like that. So then I sat down and waited for him.
Once he got home I asked him to check it out.
And sure enough not only had our cable, that used to rain like manna from heaven, been disconnected, it had been CUT. SNIP SNIP.
WHY OF ALL DAYS DID THEY CHOOSE THE DAY THAT I ACTUALLY REMEMBERED I WANTED TO WATCH MY FAVORITE SHOW!?
I was devastated. And to make matters worse, no one around me has cable either. WHAT’S THE DEAL?
Some might say, “Just watch it online.” But I can’t watch it online, because you can only watch it on CW’s page, and it really really sucks and skips, and pauses and it’s full of the same ad over and OVER. And if I have to watch one more ad for Cervical Cancer I’m going to remove my own cevix with my bare hands. Yeah, I’m that annoyed with them. I don’t mean to be insensitive to the problem, I’ve written an awareness campaign. I know it’s serious. I just can’t watch the same asinine commercial ad infinitum.
Anyway. I think cable might be like a dishwasher. It’s one of those things that you’re fine if you don’t have, but once you do have it, you realize how much more fun life can be.
So now I can’t decide what to do. I’ve narrowed it down to two options.
1. Just get over it and never find out who will be America’s Next Top Model, Chopped Champion, or Project Runway Star…
2. Not only get cable but get a damn DVR as well.
I think I’m pretty productive. And I don’t totally think television is a good thing. But at the same time…I think Tim Gunn is a wonderful thing. So it’s hard to reconcile that.
I feel like everyone I ask about this doesn’t have cable. And I feel like that’s not normal. So cast your cable vote now…or forever hold your peace.
Until then I will continue checking the CW website for the new episode of ANTM…scalpel in hand.
I’ve said this before, but I’m pretty impressed with myself for my incredible decision to marry this man. Sometimes I just sit and think about how wonderful he is and then I pat myself on the back for being so smart.
If you’re married, I hope your spouse is as wonderful as mine. And if you’re still looking for that special lover…here’s some advice. Which I only feel qualified to give because I found myself such a winner.
Yes, sexiness matters (I mean look at my sexy lumberjack), and yes common interest are nice, knowing that they work hard and can hold a job…yes that can be important too.
But I’ve found that more than anything what matters most is how they treat you. How loving they are. I married the nicest, sweetest, most tender man in the world, who not only treats me like a Princess, but also doesn’t walk out of the house when I act like one. Go for the nice ones, the dear ones, the precious ones. And life will be that much easier. Also go for the ones who bring those traits out in you. And you’ll find yourself turning into a better person because of the one you love.
Then we’ll all just be spreading that much more love in the world. And that’s a beautiful thing.
I love you Eric. You are my everything. Here’s to 2,000 more.
Does your baby need a shirt?! But you’re poor (because you gave birth!) or you can’t spend any more money on clothing?
Well you’re in luck! This free pattern is super easy, like, if you can barely sew you can do it easy, I’m serious. And you can make your little lovely a shirt with an old one of yours you probably have laying around! This simple 2-piece pattern makes literally dozens of different looking shirts for boys or girls. AND YOU DO NOT NEED A SERGER. All three of these were made using one pattern and ONLY old clothing and fabric I had in my house.
This skirt turned into…
And two of my husband’s old shirts, unused ruffle, and felt turned into…
I know, right?! And then this is like, a skirt, an old free t-shirt, and this really unflattering bird shirt AND some more of that old ruffle…
And now we need to talk about a few particulars. I know I can be long winded but it’s because I want you to succeed!
Let’s talk about sizing…
I’ve provided two sizes for you, 0-3 months and 6-12 months, but don’t feel limited! This t-shirt has what is known as a raglan sleeve. This type of sleeve is awesome for baby clothing because 1. it’s hip and 2. it doesn’t have a shoulder seam. This means that your shirt will span quite a few sizes on your baby. So I suggest printing out my pattern, taping it together, and then holding it up to some other clothing you have to check out the size, and then adjust it as necessary. Does that sound sloppy? Well that’s the beauty of this shirt. You can get pretty sloppy and it will still turn out wearable…and probably super cute. The sleeve piece is a long sleeve shirt, but obviously you can trim the sleeve wherever to make a cap sleeve, or 3/4 sleeve length.
Looking to make this shirt for a child or toddler? Print out the pattern, and then place it on a larger piece of paper. Then take a ruler and add as many inches on each side as you need. Just keep in mind the neck hole is a compilation of two body piece tops AND two OPEN sleeve tops. So don’t add too many inches to the top of the body piece or top of the sleeve piece. Also, when you adjust your sleeve make sure that the inner seam (the one that goes from neck to armpit) matches the length of the body piece seam that goes from neck to armpit.
Let’s talk about fabric…
As you rifle through your old shirts, trying to determine which will work best, look for anything with stretch. If it doesn’t stretch, it probably won’t fit over your baby’s giant head. They have GIANT HEADS! So a quilting cotton would be a no-no. But a stretch jersey or anything with spandex would be a HELL YES! But don’t swear in front of the baby. To quote Bio-Dome, what your t-shirt should want out of life is, “to die and come back as a leotard.” Most free, cheap t-shirts have SOME stretch to them. I have also used skirts to make shirts. You’re probably using the right type of fabric if it rolls at the edges instead of frays. This means it’s a knit! Huzzah!
You also may want some ribbing. This is that cute part on the sleeve or neck that makes it look finished. Like the gray ribbing on this shirt:
You can either cut existing ribbing off the shirt (like I do for my nautical stripe T) or buy some at the fabric store. Just ask the nice ladies there where the fabric you can use for ribbing is.
A QUICK SEWING LESSON…
I promise this project is REALLY easy. But that doesn’t mean you can’t learn some new sewing skillz. The only tricky thing about this project is the type of fabric it requires. Sewing on fabrics with stretch, or “knit” fabrics, can be frustrating…only if you don’t know these two tricks:
1. Buy a ballpoint needle for your machine. This will make things so much easier. You don’t HAVE to but, why make life harder over a $5 purchase?
2. Use your overlock foot. Your machine most likely came with one. I have a Bernina and it’s a #2 foot. Bust out your manual and figure out which foot it is. Or look it up online! Also, while your manual is out, look up which stitch to use with it.
This might sound super technical or intimidating, but honestly, I’m not a super seamstress. I just figured out how to read the manual. You can use a regular foot with a zig-zag stitch too! It will work and I have used it. The overlock foot and stitch just give things a really nice look and help your seams lay flatter.
Now that you have figured out your size, and your fabric…let’s get started. And I will apologize for the AWFUL pictures, things like this usually occur very late at night.
STEP #1 Cut out your pieces
Here is a super cute shirt from Banana, that never fit right! I’ve kept it for years because it’s too nice to trash, but really, it makes me look like a striped beast. When cutting out your pieces, you want to retain as many finished edges as possible. This shirt has some cute ribbing at the bottom, so I put my pattern piece along the bottom. This saves me a lot of work!
**ALSO! When cutting on fabric with stretch always make sure the stretch goes along with the width of your piece. Make room for those chubby bellies!
Next, cut out your sleeves. You’ll need two…and you will cut them on a fold. As I’ve mentioned, you can make the sleeves however long you’d like. But as you decide the length keep in mind whether you will be hemming them yourself, adding some ribbing, or leaving the edges raw. If you’re using stripes like I am, just keep moving your sleeve pieces around until the stripes are where you want them. I cut my sleeves from the existing sleeves. You’ll also need to FLIP the sleeve piece to the back side for one of the sleeves. So your sleeves don’t face the same way. Sorry I didn’t get a picture of that. If you’re using a plain color shirt, you can probably keep the original hem on the sleeves as well! Just put the bottom of your sleeve pattern piece flush with the bottom of the original sleeve.
If you will be keeping any of the original ribbing, trim that off too.
So you should have two sleeves, and two body pieces (and any ribbing you can salvage).
STEP #2 Sew your sleeves to the front body piece
Now is the time to add any applique (like the diamond) or fancy stuff, to the front body piece. Which one is the front piece? Whichever one you’d like.
If you are using an overlock foot, you do not leave a seam allowance. You sew right along the edge of the seam…like so…
Do the same if you are using just a zig-zag stitch as well. Just use extra caution to make sure you are catching both pieces of fabric.
Once your front piece is as you’d like it, pin one sleeve and one body piece RIGHT sides together. This seam goes from the neck to the arm pit. Repeat this step on the other side with the other sleeve. Your shirt will look like this when you lay it flat!
So that’s my front shirt piece, with two OPEN sleeves. Ready and waiting for the back piece to come into their lives.
STEP #3 Attach the sleeves to the back body piece
Your sleeves have an unattached side. You will be sewing this to the back body piece. With RIGHT sides together, sew one sleeve to the back body piece…when laying flat it will look like this:
Now you can complete the circle. Attach the remaining sleeve edge to the back body piece, RIGHT sides together. When laying flat the completed pieces should look like this:
STEP #4 Sew the Tiny T Shut
Flip your shirt inside out so the RIGHT sides are together. It only takes 2 seams to complete your shirt. I told you this was SO EASY. Pin one side of your shirt together, making sure that your armpit seams line up. Like so:
Starting at the sleeve bottom, sew the sleeve together. When you reach the armpit, leave your needle in the down position, lift your foot, and rotate the shirt so that you get a nice corner. Drop your foot back down, and continue sewing down to the bottom of your shirt. Take care to match up the hems on the bottom of your shirt. (On an old t-shirt it usually looks like a double line)
Repeat this on the other side.
Flip your shirt inside out! It’s DONE! Well…kind of. It looks like this (unfinished sleeves and neck.) You may or may not want to move on to step 5.
STEP #5 Decide what kind of person you are
Are you the kind of person who needs finished seams? Some people think if you go to ALL the trouble to make something, you may as well do it right. Then there are people who think, why waste time on something that hardly matters? I fall somewhere in the middle.
For THIS particular shirt I wanted the sleeves and neck to have the same ribbing as the bottom did, also, I had ribbing left over from the collar and sleeves. Not all shirts have that.
But just so you know, if you’re using a knit, it won’t fray, and if you don’t want to finish your seams you don’t have to! Gigi wore two shirts for months that didn’t have any finished seams. I just rolled the sleeves up and the bottom kind of rolled on it’s own. The neck had an 80′s look to it.
If possible, have your baby or child try the shirt on before you finish the seams, especially the neck opening, because it may be too small…in which case you should make it bigger. Or too loose! If this is the case, don’t stress out! It’s good that it fits over the head. But you might want to add ribbing to tighten things up without loosing the stretch.
On this shirt (above) I just hemmed the sleeves by pressing a 1/4″ of the sleeve to the WRONG side of the fabric, rolling it under, and pressing it again. Then I sewed it up with a straight stitch. You can also finish the neck in this same manner. (That is what I did for the diamond shirt.) But for this shirt I left the neck with raw edges. I may or may not finish it! Because I’m wild.
However, if you’d like to add ribbing, either the store bought variety or some you hacked off an old shirt…it’s shockingly simple.
HOW TO ADD RIBBING:
RIBBING STEP #1 Measure and prepare your ribbing
FOR THE WIDTH:
If you are using OLD ribbing like I did with the stripe shirt, you most likely do not need to fold it in half. Your width will be predetermined. But if you buy NEW ribbing…like the gray ribbing on the shirt pictured above, you will need to determine what width you’d like, and then double it. Once you have your length, fold the ribbing in half lengthwise (WRONG SIDES TOGETHER) and iron it flat.
FOR THE LENGTH:
Measure your desired hole…either the neck hole, or the arm hole, on your almost finished shirt. Let’s say your sleeve opening is 6″. Then take that number and figure out 2/3 of it. So…in this case I would need 4″ of ribbing. Because 4 is 2/3 of 6…right?
With right sides together, sew your ribbing shut with the overlock or zigzag stitch.
RIBBING STEP #2 Pin your ribbing in place
You have one seam on your ribbing, you can use this to evenly measure your piece into fourths for a neck or waist opening, and halves for your sleeves. Section off the neck of the shirt in fourths as well…and match the pins. You will attach your ribbing RIGHT sides together, with the BOTTOM raw edge or edges of your ribbing matching the TOP raw edges of your hole.
You want to evenly distribute the ribbing (which is smaller than the hole, remember?) Like this:
Also! You will want the seam on your ribbing at the back for the neck or waist opening, and ON THE BOTTOM, near the armpit for the armhole. I did not put my seams at the bottom and when Gigi wears the shirt it drives me nuts! Learn from my mistakes, here is the sleeve sectioned off incorrectly. See how my bulky seam is at the top of the sleeve? THE SHAME.
RIBBING STEP #3 Complete your ribbing!
Sew the ribbing to the garment, starting at the back of the neck or waist, or BOTTOM of the sleeve. Stretch the ribbing as you sew so that it matches evenly with the arm, neck, or waist hole.
AND YOU ARE DONE!!!
If you’d like to keep the shirt a tank…or use ruffle sleeves. This is all you need to do. First, finish the neck seams. Then sew the ruffle on with RIGHT SIDES together (the front of the ruffle facing the front of your shirt)
I determined the length of the gap between pieces by measuring the top of the sleeve on another shirt. Repeat this on both sides. When sewing up the side seams you will need to sew the bottom of the ruffle together…like it is a sleeve!
AND THAT’S IT! I PROMISE!!!
Look how much happier Ginger is now that she has some shirts!